Although Thailand has more golf courses than any other South East Asian
country and the Philippines has the single best course (Sta. Elena just outside
Manila), it is Indonesia that possesses the best clutch of golf courses. If you
were allocating one to two weeks to play five or six golf courses in tropical
Asia then Indonesia should be the destination of choice. To do so, some hopping
around the archipelago is required. Jagorawi and Cengkareng are in the Jakarta
area, Finna is near Surabaya in East Java, Nirwana Bali and Bali Country Club
are located on Bali and Ria Bintan is on the island of Bintan, best reached
from Singapore by ferry. The trans-continental or pan-Asian golfer would be
advised to take in Ria Bintan on an outward leg and then either fly to Jakarta
and work east to Finna and then the Bali courses or start in Bali and work
west, reversing the order of play. My own preference would be to finish in Bali
where other considerations can be allowed to take over from the golf. The order
of presentation reflects this proposed itinerary.
RIA BINTAN GOLF CLUB - OCEAN COURSE
Jl. Perigi Raja Parcel A11 Lagoi, North Bintan, 29152, Kepulauan Riau;
(62 770) 692 868-39, riabintan.com. Length: 6,470 metres. Par: 72. Architect:
Gary Player, 1999.
North Bintan is a lightly populated part of the crowded Indonesian
archipelago. Best reached by a 45 minute ferry ride from Singapore, the course
satisfies the golfing overflow from land-scarce Singapore. The course has been
laid out in abundant space along Bintan's northern coastline on the one side
and abuts pristine tropical forest on the other. The best known and most
memorable sequence of holes are those closest to the shore, a sequence that
begins at the long and narrow par 5 7th where the golfer plays to a green
positioned in front of a sea horizon that you see for the first time as you
approach your second shot. The 8th is a tricky two shotter where you play to a
crest and then hit a short shot to a green below, built out to sea with the
full play of breezes to contend with. The par 3 9th is perhaps the prettiest
coastal par 3 in Asia (though it is tough to choose any hole over the 7th at
Nirwana Bali). You play across a
rocky inlet to a peninsula green 150 metres away. Most will prefer the sea and
jungle holes which are well executed. By contrast the five holes from the first
play around a large internal lake are a little more artificial. That said the
lake side, jungle and beach holes gives this wonderfully presented course
plenty of variety.
JAGORAWI GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB - OLD COURSE
Cibinong - Bogor, West Java. (62 21) 875 3810-17; jagorawi.com. Length
(metres): Blue tees 6,023; White 5,604; Red 4,815. Par:72. Architects: Thomson,
Wolveridge & Perret 1979.
Though not the oldest course in Java, the Old Course at Jagorawi is very
much the grande dame of Indonesian golf. Traffic permitting, it lies within 40 minutes of Central Jakarta.
The 27 holes at Jagorawi are built on undulating land whose former use was as a
rubber plantation.. The
surrounding tropical vegetation has reasserted itself over the courseÕs 26
years of existence so that many of the tee shots are played through verdant
chutes. It is also one of the few remaining walking courses in tropical Asia -
a steamy, toxin-expunging slog. A round on the Old Course is also a walk in
West Java. You are never quite isolated here as the course borders country
kampongs, teeming with life best seen as you play the par four 12th, the par
five 15th and par four 16th the follows it. An attacking shot from the tee at
the 15th will need to fly some of this rural life to take on the green in two.
Although the course from the back tees is at least 10% shorter than most modern
championship courses but it defends its 72 par well. Most of the trouble is to
be found from the tee and this begins at the first, one of the most testing
openings in Asian golf. You peer down at an ever narrowing strip of fairway
from a level above the jungle canopy. The second is played to a throttle in the
fairway and the third, a pitch to a frighteningly cambered green. Many a medal
score has been fatally injured at the 1st. The hot and subtly difficult Old
Course is a superb marriage of land and golf holes and should be at the top of
any list to play in Indonesia.
FINNA GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB RESORT
Jalan Raya Barsari Prigen- Pasuruan 67157, East Java. (62 343) 634 888;
finnagolf.com. Length (metres): Pro tees 6,345; Mens 5,733; Ladies 5,029.
Par:72. Architects: Thomson, Wolveridge & Perret 1993.
The
golf course at Finna, named after the Indonesian food concern that developed
the property, is built 500 metres above sea level on the foothills of an
extinct volcano, just below the hill station retreat of Tretes in East Java.
This elevation means that early mornings and evenings are relatively cool. The
atmosphere is serene and Finna is one of the most delightful places in Asia to
stay and play golf. There is sufficient light to golf at five in the morning
and the volcanoes Arjuna, Welirang and Penanggungan are best viewed between
this hour and about 9am. Visually stunning, they also have some bearing on how
you play the course. Although only on the foothills of Mount Arjuna, the
volcano lends bias to the putting greens. The course's designer Peter Thomson,
one of golfÕs most elegant massagers of the ball, still holds the course record
of 67 which he shot while playing
the inaugural round at the courseÕs opening. His former business partner and
playing partner that day, Michael Wolveridge, was reported to have cut in while
one of the new caddies was trying to point out the line on one of the greens:
ÒYes darling, I designed it.Ó Stronger hitting from the tee becomes more of a
prerogative on the back nine where long, straight tee shots over the closing
holes will lend a chance to unlocking the course. The 5-4-4-4 sequence that
ends the course are all magnificent driving holes. Finna is a restful place and
a tonic to the senses. The club welcomes visitors and Surabaya is well served
by regional airlines.
NIRWANA BALI GOLF CLUB
Jl, Raya Tana Lot, Kediri, Tabanan, 82171, Bali (62 361) 815 960; nirwanabaligolf.com.
Length (metres): Shark tees 6,805; Mens 5,733; Championship 6,293. Par:72.
Architects: Greg Norman 1997.
Although
Nirwana Bali is on the tough end of the scale for a resort course, it looks
more difficult than it plays. Not to say that thereÕs no do-or-die Normanesque
options on this course. Most of them lurk on the back nine. The drama begins on
the 10th tee. Here, his great whiteness implores you to deliver a slider from
the tee and then on the 10th to take on a green that is fronted by enough
tropical gunge to qualify for conservation-area status. After that test he then
sets up a par three that will in truth be played as a par four for most. The 13th is my personal favourite of
the sea holes. It has a links-land feel and the hole will receive the maximum
impact of breezes at work on the day of play. The best strategy is to play left
toward the fairway bunker which gains a better view of the elevated green. As the
small green is situated at the very top of the hill, it is a finely judged
wedge that makes its target. The par three across the surf that follows is
tougher than the famed 7th on the front nine and normally plays into the
prevailing wind so and is possible to play anything between a 5 iron and a
driver. Nirwana Bali is pitched on the edge of the possible for a resort
course. A bad round will always be forgiven on account of the atmosphere and
views. Almost all its holes are excellent and it has three of the best par
threes in Asia, two of the best short par fours and one of the best longer par
fours.
BALI GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB
P.O. Box 12, Nusa Dua 80363, Bali
(62 361) 771 791; baligolfandcountryclub.com. Length (metres): Crown
tees 6,871; Lion 6,437. Par:72. Architects: Nelson & Wright 1991.
BaliÕs
second golf course – in order of completion – nestles amongst the
super-hotels in the Nusa Dua hotel park at the Southern-most point of the
island. The course is laid out in three sections. The front nine runs up a hill
adjacent to the Aman Nusa hotel, the back nine is laid out on flat land
adjacent to the coast. In between the two are the clubhouse and spa complex and
the 17th and 18th holes, spliced by a dramatic water feature.
Perhaps
the front nine is more beautiful on account of the natural elevation of the
land which has allowed the landscapers to develop the tiered padi as a visual
counterpoint. This is deployed with great effect on the par four 3rd and the
par three 4th. The fairways on this nine are bordered by vibrant bougainvillea
and frangipani. The opening holes deploy most of the possible hole variations
– a par five, then a short four, then a longish four and par three. All
the holes ascend to the par five 7th tee which offers a great view back down
the slope to the massive Hilton Hotel and the sea beyond. The 8th as well is a
wonderful driving hole where the drive must cross a chasm and finish
sufficiently right of the fairway to gain a clear view to the green. The 9th
again calls for a lusty hit. The second then crosses water to a shallow green.
The back nine is characterised by the tall spindly palms that line the fairways
and the enormous bunkers that extend along the edges of most fairways. Not
bowed by the limitations of the split site, the architects have exploited this
physical separation by designing two nines of vastly different character.